Food Pages
THE BOSTON GLOBE
Cover Story: Sheryl Julian notes that US cuisine has roots in native and immigrant cultures. Recipes for Vietnamese Summer Rolls with Soy Dipping Sauce (Karoline Boehm Goodnick), Mexican Food Truck Pulled-Chicken Tacos (Sally Pasley Vargas), and Irish Brown Bread[no link] (Sheryl Julian) are shared.
Alison Arnett profiles Jeffrey and Suzanne Carson, who created Mi-Amore, a non-profit that provides food for people in need around Winthrop.
Insider: Ann Trieger Kurland highlights the new takeout window in Kendall Square from CommonWealth Kitchen, a culinary incubator helping hopeful food entrepreneurs launch business by providing a commercial kitchen and advice; Kurland recommends a new sturdy,diner-style spatula from R. Murphy Knives of Ayer; Kurland notes that George’s Coney Island in Worcester celebrates its 100thanniversary.
Getting Salty: Kara Baskin sits down with Yousef Ghalaini, the culinary director at Ed Kane’s Big Night Entertainment Group.
Critic’s Notebook: Devra First writes that restaurants are apt theaters for protests in regard to the Trump administration, because without immigrants, the restaurant industry would not function.
What She’s Having: Sheryl Julian highlights the Black-Eyed Pea Hummus with Crispy Chicken Skins at Bisq in Inman Square.
Patti Woods notes that Athletic Brewing Co. in Connecticut makes only non-alcoholic craft beers.
Bottles: Gary Dzen spotlights The Portsmouth Brewery’s “Selkie” beer, brewed with 60 pounds of kelp.
THE NEW YORK TIMES
Cover Story: Kim Severson states the case as to why cottage cheese is on the comeback trail, with some new flavors and small-batch appeal.
The Upshot: Emily Badger explains why San Francisco restaurants are putting diners to work, stemming from high housing costs altering the city’s economics.
A Good Appetite: Melissa Clark shares the secrets to perfect popcorn with recipes from Sqirl’s Jessica Koslow for Spicy Pimenton, Vegan “Cheesy,” and Coconut Sugar Caramel popcorn.
Front Burner: Florence Fabricant spotlights the “Strawberry Dream” dessert from Petee’s Pie Company; the $25-180 wagyu sandwiches at Don Wagyu; Frank Pepe Genuine Italian Tomatoes that are now available for purchase; Momenti Spirited Ice Creams & Sorbets; Alpine whiskey glass with soapstone base from Simone Pearce; Eugène Briffault’s “Paris à Table” gives an extensive glimpse into Parisian dining.
City Kitchen: David Tanis’ Ricotta-Stuffed Shells with Pesto is a crowd-pleaser.
The Pour: Eric Asimov details how winemakers have found a new appreciation for bobal, an obscure red grape from southeastern Spain that was left behind as others from the region gained global fame.
Off the Menu: Florence Fabricant headlines with Kings Co Imperial, along with sharing the openings of Rosemary’s Pizza, Blue Stripes (cacao shop), Taco Electrico, Grimm Artisanal Ales and Millie’s of Staten Island.
Restaurants: Pete Wells dines at The Islands, a favorite Caribbean restaurant in Crown Heights that escaped the wrecking ball. Giving the restaurant one star, Wells notes that the recently moved restaurant was still not in full working condition and some dishes didn’t seem finished, but those that were fully cooked were still nuanced and powerful.
Hungry City: Ligaya Mishan enjoys the spirit of Tajikistan at Brooklyn’s Café Dushanbe.
Larissa Zimberoff features Rise Products, a Brooklyn-based company that takes spent grains from area breweries and turns it into “Super Flour.”
Kim Severson provides a guide to soft fresh cheeses that includes cottage cheese, mascarpone and more.
BOSTON HERALD
Scott Kearnan shares local chef spins on cookout classics, including Grilled Strawberry and Mint Shortcake with Maple Ricotta Cheese(Daniel Bruce of Meritage); Grilled Cabbage Miso Sesame Slaw (Matt Gaudet of Superfine Food); and Mamma Sisca Pasta Salad (Robert Sisca of Bistro du Midi).
SF CHRONICLE
Jonathan Kauffman gives a look into Baumé in Palo Alto, which has two Michelin stars and only two staff members.
Esther Mobley explains California wine’s sustainability dilemma.
LA TIMES
Jenn Harris’ roundup of LA food and drink news includes the announcement that Chef Liz Johnson, a Food & Wine best new chef, has left her most recent post and is looking for investors for her own restaurant.
Harris explains why eating at L.A. malls is way better than ever, including Michael Mina’s soon-to-open food hall at the Beverly Center.